Blogs

The more I kayaked past Newfoundland’s weathered coastline the more I wanted to get out of my boat and walk.

I wouldn’t call myself a kayaker. I prefer paddling a canoe, even if I do have to portage now and then. But I also wouldn’t consider myself a canoe snob either. Any soft-path vessel is fine by me as long as it gets me into a wilderness area.

If you recall, our last stop was in North West River. Although we had tentatively planned to leave there mid day, I often lose sight of time when I follow my nose so it was dusk when we bid farewell to this region and hit that long long (albeit relatively new) road to Cartwright. Did I say that road was long?  I should have known we wouldn’t get there before midnight.

The Tablelands are backcountry skiing mecca in Newfoundland that attracts skiers from across the Island and beyond in the months of April and May. This area is located between the communities of Woody Point and Trout River in Gros Morne National Park and there is a turn off and large parking lot giving quick access to the mountains.

Five highlights from a road trip down Newfoundland’s Route 430.

On Tuesday, April 9, 2013 John Moores and I headed up to check out the snow stability and snow depths along the flank of Blow me down Mountain near Corner Brook. This area has a great setting for exploring in all seasons but it is particularly scenic in the winter when the white snow contrasts with the deep blue water of the Bay of Islands. Add to this the progressively steeper snow slopes mean that you have terrain that can be adapted to your skills and equipment.

Ben Whitmarsh takes a 'hike' which explores the culinary traditions and lively atmosphere of Ellison in Newfoundland - and gets to eat more than his fair share of dishes crafted by some of Canada's top chefs

Seeing puffins for the first time

From the time the first colonists settled in Cupers’ Cove (now Cupids) in 1610, Newfoundland culture, heritage, and survival has revolved around the North Atlantic and its bounty. Spending time at The Wooden Boat Museum in Winterton gave me an idea of what life was like in the outport communities back when people relied on the land and sea to survive.

“You know most of my clients are novice snowmobilers. I would say that at least 60% have never driven a sled before so we spend the first 15-20 minutes of a tour showing them how to steer and stop a snowmobile as well as the basic hand signals. I have had people this year from England, Ireland and even Pakistan but most of my clients come from the East Coast of the province.” Darren told us recently over the phone.

Even though I knew that Happy Valley Goose Bay was the hub of Labrador, I was surprised to find a town of  7,500+ people with stores, restaurants, pubs, fast food outlets, churches, recreational facilities, building supply outlets, hotels—ad infinitum. Bit of a shock after driving long stretches without seeing neither man nor beast. (Remember those long, long, very long and straight dirt roads I was talking about?)  

If you’re a winter enthusiast, Newfoundland and Labrador is the ultimate destination for outdoor adventure. With an annual snowfall of up to 16 feet, and the activity season running into March and April, there’s no shortage of winter fun. 

A place inhabited by unique and fascinating people is bound to attract folks with a similar penchant for individuality. Folks like Bernie and his mule Polly. While I was in Elliston, at the Roots, Rants and Roars Festival, I ran into Bernie – a man who exuded a one-of-a-kind personality and a distinct sense of adventure.

The past has a strong presence in Newfoundland and Labrador, and Trinity is no exception. Located on the Discovery Trail, Trinity is a rare gem preserved in an ever-changing world. Known for its history, friendliness and strong fishing culture, this beautiful town gives new meaning to the word authentic.

The Huxter family sets up camp in La Scie and sets out to explore the Baie Verte Peninsula.

Sea kayaking, whale watching, larger-than-life icebergs, amazing nightlife, and incredible food. These are things that I associate with St. John’s and one can experience all of them here in one day.  As of June 2012, I added a new St. John’s experience to that list: ziplining.

Remember those long, very long dirt roads? Yup—lots more on the way to Churchill Falls. At some point we passed Ranger Lake where we saw a camp and an RV. It was such a startling change from miles and miles of black spruce and sky, Barrie piped up “Jeez—it’s built up around here.” (I’ve heard it said that you know you’re a Labradorian when your idea of a traffic jam is two cars waiting to pass a moose. Although we didn’t see a moose on our way to Churchill Falls, seeing a camp and RV on that long and lonely stretch struck my funny bone.)  

The Huxter clan tests their skills at a Newfoundland tradition: catchin' capelin.

When the Trans Labrador Highway opened up—making it possible to drive 1126km from Labrador City all the way across the province to L’Anse-au-Clair, Sandra Phinney and her husband Barrie MacGregor decided to make the loop from their home in Yarmouth, Nova Scotia.  Four provinces and 5673 kilometers later, they are still talking to each other and still talking about their trip. Sandra’s posted some blogs about this journey.

The Huxter's cool off at Splash N' Putt, Newfoundland and Labrador's version of Disney World.